HANKS TRAVEL BLOG

There were lots of bars about a ten minute walk from my holiday inn, but  it was raining by the time I decided to do that, and I thought no, I’ll stay here. Even before I ordered a beer, I thought again, no atmosphere here, so I’ll tackle the rain once more. Luckily I found a bar less than a kilometre walk and hooked up with the locals. I was hoping for a Sunday roast, which is a must do in the UK on Sunday. Unfortunately I had to settle for a Turkish burger. Nice, but I would have preferred a pommy roast on my last Sunday in England. I raced back between showers, and slept really well. This morning after my last full english breakfast.yum, I trained it back to London and chilled out on Emily’s couch. It’s amazing, when you stop, the body all of a sudden goes into limp mode, like modern cars do when the slightest thing goes wrong with them. When Em finished work, we went for a walk and I snuck into a pub for possibly one of my last pints in an english pub before I leave these shores. I have had a great experience, as I usually do,and I’m going to cry inside when I say bye to our Em, I’ll hug her lots for her mum, that’s for sure. Maybe I’ll come back for more, don’t know. I do love the challenges life throws when I’m walking. And in all honesty, my body keeps repairing itself, and that could be the secret to the fountain of youth. Thanks for allowing me to share my thoughts and experiences with you ❤️

This morning, I awoke at five am thinking  about going back to sleep for a nine o’clock full english breakfast.yum. But then reality sinks  in. I need to cover at least thirty two ks, more actually,by the time I  add the walk to my accommodation,so I need to get cracking. After a hot shower and organise my kit together, including making my flask of hot tea, I was on the road by six. The road was dry, but the rain was iminent. The first hour and a half, down country lanes. Pleasant walking and rain still threatening. Saw a fox and lots of squirrels. Thankfully, none headed for my legs. Then lots of hill climbing through the meadows. Met a young couple from Bath,walking through the woods, and we had a nice chat. Then I met Nick, a local walking his dogs. We also chatted at length. He said the foxes are out and about searching for rabbits to feed their young. Funny, with the amount of rabbit holes around, I haven’t seen many rabbits. Maybe they’re hiding from the foxes. Most of the rabbits I’ve seen are wearing rain coats including myself. So far, no poncho today. There is plenty of mud about though, so happily walk on country lanes where possible. Passed through many villages today, but different. No one about and more like medieval villages and no shops. As I approach each one, I’m hoping to find a cafe, no such luck. I also pass several groups of up to twenty walkers out on their Sunday outings. Most are old like me, and are kind with their words when I inform them of walking the whole distance. When I reach twenty kilometre, and still no cafe, I stop for a break, and have a banana and cup of tea. Three old blokes pass by, and for the first time I recognise them from three days ago. They are also on the last stage. When I reach thirty ks, I hear music playing, and there is a festival on in a large open paddock on the outskirts of Bath. I walk around, and families are enjoying their day. I talk to one of the stall holders cooking meat on a bbq installed in a VW beetle. He also owns a kombi. We hit it off. Still no rain. I thought I was near the end of my Cotswold, but my new VW pal, tells me I still have at least an hour of up and down walking through the suburbs of Bath before I reach the Abbey in the centre of town. I decide to make that my priority, as time is marching on.I leave the festival and spot a cafe, and am not going any further till I at least have the salmon and brie toastie on thick brown bread and a steaming hot chocolate on offer. I now have a bit more energy and head for the Abbey. The middle of the city was packed with people shopping and utilising all the bars and restaurants. Finally, I stand on a round disc in front of the ancient Abbey that reads zero. Hallelujah, I made it.I celebrate with a couple who also reach the milestone within minutes of me arriving. I now have a twenty minute walk to my accommodation and a steaming hot shower. On the way, I buy a couple of beers from a spars supermarket, as I just want to lay on my bed and reflect, not only on the Cotswold, but also the camino. I’m absolutely stoked. My body feels good, and the rain stayed away.

I didn’t want to leave my den this morning. I’m almost over the weather that is being thrown at me. I have a nice room at the fox Inn,and it’s Saturday, and I could stay another night, but I have to catch a train on Monday back to London, plus I’m a long way from the finish line. I will keep walking, rain hail and hopefully some shine. Across the road, there is a tent with beautiful fresh homemade pastries. I make my way through the rain and purchase a sausage roll and an almond  crosaint. Back in my den,I enjoy my breakfast with a cup of english breakfast, watching an old episode of, every one loves Raymond. Check out is at ten and I obey the rules. As I leave, the sun is barely shining, but the rain has ceased. I’m so happy, I start walking north instead of south. Thankfully, a minute later, a local walking her dog sets me straight. The walking today was mostly across meadows of cows and sheep, with many lambs. Reasonably level counry, but a few slippery sections. Again, lots of rainy periods,but that’s the way it is. I would have had a reasonably short day, compared to recent days, but my village was a good hours walk from the Cotswold way. No buses  Sunday, so I will walk back to commence my final day to Bath. I called into a butchers shop to compare the price of meat with prices in Australia. Much dearer here, in fact the butcher informs me they don’t sell wagyu,as noonne can afford it. Lamb is also very expensive. I told him, we could make a deal, as I see many lambs in the paddocks and I could bring him some on Monday. We’ll come a waltzing matilda. Tonight, I have just joined the locals for a pint, and headed to the local Italian restaurant for a pizza, which is packed to the rafters. I have breakfast included in the morning, but not sure I want to wait till nine, as that is what time breakfast commences on Sunday. I have thirty two kilometres, so I need to start early, especially if the weather is atrocious like it has been. I’ll make that decision when I awake.

I shouldn’t have looked out the window this morning. It’s raining. A small breakfast of sausage, mushrooms,toast and tea. Gathered my belongings, which I’m struggling to keep dry,especially my shoes,  also made sure to take my walking poles, which I left in the door way purposely the night before, so I couldn’t forget them, I headed for the bus. Google maps led me up the garden path, according to my bus driver. Luckily, he knew what he was talking about, and led me in the right direction,otherwise I could have ended up anywhere. A long punishing day as it turned out,considering it rained on many occasions. It seems when walking through the woods, the clouds drop away, and with the sun filtering through, the walking is amazing. Then usually while climbing, the sun takes its turn to rest, and the wind and rain take their turn. By mid afternoon, the temperature has plummeted and the rain turned to hail. I honestly believe my fingers were frozen. By 6 pm, one mile from Dursley, and then another three to my destination, I rang and begged for them to send me a taxi. The inn keeper was kind enough to send one of his staff to rescue me. Once at my hotel, I drank a pint, ordered my dinner, went upstairs for a well deserved hot shower,  and back down stairs for one more pint and dinner. I then gladly went to bed to do my blog, but fell asleep within minutes. My highlight of the day was following some walkers who missed a marker. I yelled, you on the Cotswold way?the answer was yes. They were very grateful. I also met other lost walkers. It’s easy to miss a marker when it’s raining as you’re concentrating on the slippery conditions you’re trying to navigate. Besides, the bigger signs are made from timber that blend in with the trees, and most signs are not even 60 cm discs,fixed to whatever they can fix them to. As bad as the weather was, still many walking, and that lifts my spirit. My other highlight came whilst walking through a village. Lots of times, the track can be less than a metre wide,with cottages each side. If curtains are open, and they usually are,you’re looking into their lounge or kitchen, without really trying. Well, I laughed when passing a lounge window that had a statue of a monkey, pointing his middle finger at his audience. This morning I had weetbix for breakfast, and my driver took me back to where I would continue my walk, and although very cold, I stayed dry. When the sun appeared, it was most welcome. The rain threatened all so often, but stayed away. When walking through fields of long grass and stinging weeds, known commonly as nettles, my shins are stinging badly by the end of the day. Also yesterday my bottom lip was swollen badly and numb, not a nice feeling. Today, I’m grateful my accommodation is on the way. No transport juggling. I also haven’t seen the same walkers two days in a row, not like the camino.

Last evening, after arriving at the London inn, I found some news paper to get my shoes dry for today. I hate starting the day in wet shoes. This pub is not serving dinner, as apparently the owner is away, so I walked a minute up to the next pub. A bit of a posh pub, but the sea bass fillets,boiled baby potatoes with local greens and clams was quite tasty. I was able to sit out doors as the weather had completely settled and the sun was shining. Wasn’t very warm, as there was a chilly wind blowing. Everyone else was inside, which puzzled me. Back to the inn to stack some zzzzzs. This morning,when I walked into the breakfast area,I noticed some well dressed business looking dudes looking me up and down. Maybe they thought I should have ironed my singlet. Stiff.I only ate half my breakfast of sausage, bacon, fried eggs, that have very pale yokes. Can’t wait to get back and eat fresh farm eggs. Also had some baked beans and black pudding, toast and tea. I need to eat less. I suppose I do burn it off. At least it keeps me going all day. And sometimes,unless you walk off the trail, there is nowhere to get anything. That’s ok,I have my trusty thermos, that’s all I need. The bus ride was only ten minutes, and I left most of my kit behind as I’m back at the inn tonight. It hadn’t rained at all over night as the roads were bone dry. I alighted the bus with great enthusiasm, wondering what the day would bring. It didn’t take long. Once I left the road and headed up a steep hill,I realised my enthusiasm had started before I left my room.I walked out without my walking poles. Damn.I have a light pack, so I’ll be fine, besides, I’ll lose a couple of hours if I go back now. And then it started to rain again.  And the rain was heavy. Amazing,maybe walk at night. My walking speed went down to a snail’s pace in some sections, as slippery slopes were hard to navigate without sticks. By the end of the day, I was pretty much drowned and tired, didn’t get as far as I would have liked to. Shit happens. I’ll leave earlier for the next few days to catch up, as I am on a time limit, and I have my accommodation to consider. Tomorrow morning I have over an hour bus travel to get to my starting point. I’m having Indian tonight. I just walked past on my way back to the inn and smells delicious. Need to get my shoes dry again. Hopefully better weather tomorrow 😌 🙏. Not many photos today. Can you believe it?I opened the window when I got into my room, and the sun is out.

After my shower and a well deserved rest, I joined the locals for a pint, and then enjoyed haddock fillets, battered with big chips for dinner. I have to laugh, as being who I am, I am able to hold an audience,a bit like our Em, even if I do talk shit. As long as we’re all having fun, who cares. Then at some point, someone asks me my age. Probably the only time, I’m telling the truth, and the only time when no one believes me. Funny that. Then I explain, stay young by walking, and enjoying. I’m happy to think, that it does inspire people. This morning after mueseli, fried eggs, sauted mushrooms, bacon, beans and tomatoes, toast and tea, I walked to the bus stop to catch a bus back to my starting point. I swapped buses at Broadway. I prefer to just walk, but having to do it this way, I do get to see a lot more. When I eventually started walking, the weather was superb. The walking was superb. I kept thinking, apart from the massive climbing along green pastures, and then steep down hill on natural stone paths, this is brilliant. However, that changed after walking through some stables, where the horses looked like Melbourne cup winners. The sky turned black,the thunder erupted, and the rain was coming side ways with a raging wind. It didn’t help missing a Cotswold sign and walking a mile the wrong way.I flagged down a motorist who took me back. When I got out of the car, the storm hit fiercely. He told me, he thought I was crazy to be walking. Thankfully my poncho was ready. Fifteen minutes later, the sun came out. As I walked to the top of the next big hill,it all happened again, but ten times worse. Incredible thunder under black angry clouds. Still at the top of the hill, there was no place to hide. Absolutely got smashed this time, including hail. By now, I’ve met Laurel,a local lass walking a day trip. We were happy not to be navigating this trip alone. It was now very slippery and quite dangerous trying to go down the slippery slopes. I was laughing, as I thought after yesterday, today would be boring. Quite the opposite. Eventually when Laura and I reached the bottom, and the weather settled, we said our good byes. I checked my phone, and I only had a forty minute walk to my accommodation. Happy to walk, than negotiating a bus.

This morning after mueseli, a cooked breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage, sauted mushrooms, toast and tea,a full tank,I was ready to commence my Cotswold walk experience. The first bus to Chippen Campden is at nine forty. It’s seven kilometres.I could relax for an hour, and the bus might not turn up. I ring a taxi,there are three taxi companies in Blockley. Every company owns one taxi. Two don’t answer, and the third one has bookings, so forget that idea. I start walking, and hitch hike. No one trusts an aussie walking in a singlet. Can’t work that out. I just want to get to the starting point. Half hour in, and the rain starts, that’s ok, not heavy, walking conditions perfect. Cool weather,no traffic, country roads and natural paths,beautiful scenery, beautiful villages. The rain stopped, saw maybe half a dozen other walkers. Also saw local walkers. Found the start line,and off I went. I bought a guide book at the information centre  to add to my growing list of guide books, to look through whilst having a beer at the end of the day. According to my trusty guide book, Broadway is the end of the first stage. But I want to walk on.I went to the information centre to make sure I could get a bus back to Blockley. No worries. If I walk to Toddington,there’s a steam train back to Broadway, and bus to Bockley. I’m excited to walk the extra ten kilometres through the countryside just to ride on the steam train. I’m pushed for time, so let’s go. When I’m close, I’ve taken a wrong turn. Bad luck. I get to the top of a hill, and a road worker informs me of my mistake. Unfortunately, by the time I turn back, the train will have gone without me. As I start to trudge back down, wondering how I will get back to Bockley, Josh says, jump in,I’ll take you. We get to the train station with ten minutes to spare, and not a soul. The railway yards locked. Then I see a sign,Steam train to Broadway, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Trouble is, today is Monday. The nob in the information centre failed to tell me that. Josh now seeing my dilemma, says he’ll take me back to Broadway to catch a bus to Bockley. Then rain starts falling, and he changes his mind and takes me back to Bockley. What a man. Whenever there is bad luck,somehow good luck follows. Had I not made a wrong turn, not sure what would have happened. A million thanks to my new friend Josh.I wanted to buy him a beer, but he declined and drove away.

Boy,how time flies. It’s been a week since I arrived in santiago de compostella. I had less than twenty hours in London, a few of those spent with Emily. The next morning I was on the train to Glasgow. The whole reason for that, was to ride the jacobite train from Fort William to Mallaig. It’s a steam train trip, world renowned. I walked part of it when I walked the west highland way. The train only runs in the summer, and I walked in the winter, so I was always coming back to tick it off. Unfortunately, not this year. The english government, in its wisdom, decided just before the summer time table came out, to modernise the door locks,which had serviced these beautiful carriages for the last one hundred and twenty odd years. So it will probably be winter before the job is done. When you try to purchase a ticket, all you get is,operating times tbc.to be confirmed. There are a lot of unhappy tour companies and punters like me. As far as tourism goes, the jacobite train is one of the jewels in the crown. So apart from checking out Glasgow and her bars,and a full day small bus group tour covering some of the areas I walked, plus more, I did enjoy my break. My train from Glasgow arrived back in London on Friday afternoon. I proceeded to an ATM ,to find my card was unacceptable. That’s ok, I have two back ups. No,they wouldn’t give me any money either. Maybe a crook ATM. No, other people could get money out. If I tell you what happened next, I will need fifty more pages to explain. Cut a long story short, I can tap,but I can’t get cash out. A bit annoying, but I can handle it. With AI in place, I can’t reach a real person to sort it. But that’s how the system operates, get used to it. Back in London, Emily cooked my dinner after sitting in an outside bar on a balmy London evening. The next day we had a big day walking the seven sisters. Another beautiful coastal walk, a couple of hours south of London. They are made of chalk and located on the english channel. We probably walked at least half or more of it. About twelve kilometres in total.Sunday,Em made me a nice egg and salami and other nice ingredient wrap in the fry pan.I repacked my kit ready for my Cotswold walk. Emily wasn’t  feeling one hundred percent, so we relaxed and played a game of cards till it was time for me to catch three different trains, a bus, and a half hours walk to Bockley for my accommodation, before catching a bus to the starting line tomorrow morning. The weather has been incredible the last few  weeks in the UK. This week on the Cotswold, the forecast is rain almost every day and temperatures between thirteen and seventeen. Maybe I should have done it last week. We’ll see what happens. I’m always singing that crowded house song, everywhere you go,always take the weather with you.

Santiago de compostella is a vibrant place with many thousands of pilgrims coming and going daily. Sunday morning after breakfast, I strolled around the square,  constantly gazing up at the cathederal. It’s massive, it’s amazing. It’s absolutely beautiful. It’s mystique. And that’s only looking at the outside. I then met with Helen and Mark, and Karen and Donna queued for one and a half hours before the pilgrims mass at twelve o’clock. There were many hundreds in front of us,and many, many hundreds behind us. When we finally filed into this monstrous magnificent building, we had to run and scramble to get a seat. Having been there before, I knew where to go to get a reasonable view of the Botafumeiro in action. Google it,it is an amazing experience. After mass, I didn’t see the American sisters Karen and Donna again. Mark Helen and I said our good byes, but we did manage to run into each other three more times. One of those times was when we ran into Adrian and Linda from Yeppoon. Haven’t seen them for ages. In the afternoon, I made my way back to the albergue, collected my pack, and made my way to the train station. By seven pm, I was at my accommodation in A Cohuna, where I will fly from at six thirty in the morning to London and catch up with our daughter Emily. Then to Scotland for a restful few days before tackling the Cotswold walk in England. I will put the pen and paper away now for a week and start my blog when I commence the Cotswold. Thank you for your comments and inspiration. I do respond,but not sure if they are going through.I have been on a wonderful journey so far.

This morning, Mark, Helen and I left together as one to finish what we started together five weeks ago. It seems like a lifetime ago since we met at Gatwick airport after I was trying to clamber over barbed wire to start my journey. Also amazing how time passed so quickly. Again, up hill down hill on natural paths and country roads. Passing through lots of eucalypt forests. The first half reasonably easy, the last half not so easy on pavement through the city streets leading to santiago. The weather very kind under clouded skies. The humidity was high, but the cool breezes very comforting.Once I spotted the cathederal, I started to choke up,knowing my emotions would take over. All the reflections from the last thirty five days, all the pilgrims that have become part of who I am,knowing I will probably never see them again. Today is a day of celebration. Tomorrow I will go back to where I came from. Hopefully I will be wiser for the experience. After celebrating in the square with Mark and Helen, we headed to the pilgrim’s office and collected our compostella. Then a cup of tea, and Helen and Mark went to find their albergue. I stayed to enjoy a phone call from my family. I then had a bowl of galician soup for lunch with bread. Feeling exhausted, I then found my albergue and showered and rested. This evening, I walked back to the cathederal, joined my now beautiful American sisters, Mark and Helen for drinks, then the poms went for their special dinner, while the girls and I did likewise.