Last night, it was pleasant sitting around the fireplace in the albergue bar and having drinks with pilgrims I had not met before. Normally, you can’t get anything to eat before seven thirty, even eight o’clock in some places. Not here, food available all day, and going off at eight pm. There was no pilgrims dinner, just pub food. That was ok. A popular meal was currouzo sausage, with chips and fried eggs. And bread of course. I had that . Tasted good and washed down with the local vino 🍷, couldn’t ask for anything better. After dinner, we kept chatting, till slowly there were no more pilgrims left in the bar. By the time I went to bed, the room had seven occupants. Four women and three blokes. When I woke in the middle of the night to go to the toilet, there was some fine snoring going on by both sexes. Equality here. Funny how everyone denied being the snorer in the morning. As I left for the final ascent, the mist and cloud was heavy, but as they came and went, and the air was freezing, the views back over the valley were sensational. When I reached O Cebreiro, I was shocked. This beautiful human rural settlement on top of a mountain, from medieval times,  was swarming with tourists/pretend pilgrims. Dressed like eskimos,waiting to board the tourist buses. No one was walking, too cold. There were so many, I didn’t think I could get past,so I screamed, as loud as I could through the mist BEUN CAMINO. It was like the parting of the water as I barged through, with all these quiet replies of beun camino. I felt good. The ascent was not as hard as I remember, and the track was fast. Then after Cebreiro, although a down hill descent, there were still a few sharp ascents. I caught up with Helen and Mark after about eight ks at a nice cafe that served very nice potato tortilla and hot sachet chocolate. The rain mainly stayed away, but the misty rain was enough to pull on the poncho on probably four occasions. At one point, we chose the alternative route as it took you away from the road. Not that the road was any problem. We also walked amongst the cows that were moving from one paddock to another. Only one hundred and forty kilometres to go. We will need to adjust to the thousands of pilgrims that only walk the last one hundred kilometres, as it will be very busy.