HANKS TRAVEL BLOG

As is becoming routine, wake up,get my rattling bones out of bed, open the curtains in anticipation,and today very foggy, maybe rain temporarily gone again. While having my usual English breakfast, which I need to stop doing,the fog lifts and blue skies. Some clouds and light winds. After being dropped back to the red barn hotel in Woolocombe by a kind lady who was also at breakfast, which meant I cheated a mile, as I should have started at the beginning of town. Never mind, this will count for the wrong turns I’ve made, and I’m walking 32ks today as I can’t find any accommodation in between. Setting out of Woolacombe beach was a lovely feeling. With a chill in the air,sun shining, there was no shortage of families frolicking and children building sand castles along the beach enjoying the last day of their long weekend. As I started my climb up the headlands,I met an english couple walking their last day before heading back home to Sussex. This is how most people walk the south west coast path. As they have a few  days off, they bus back to where they finished. It can take them several years to complete.I walked  through many fields and watched the cows grazing and got up close to the coast up high and then down again to walk along what appeared to be a surf beach. Many people in the water, some with surf boards, however, it didn’t appear to be much surf. Lots of surf hire equipment, including wet suit hire. Twenty pounds to hire one. I guess that’s cheap compared to ending up with brass monkeys.I again, as I do at least once a day, found my way off the track. I ended up in some huge estate. Massive house with huge ponds and waterfalls. As I tried to find my way out of there, I imagined being shot at by some angry  aristocrat,or being set upon by some hungry hunting dogs. After ten minutes, I found a fence I could scamper over, and safely back on my way. As I walked away from my wonderous estate, two young boys approached me and asked if that was my residence. I answered that if that was my residence, I would be leaving by a rolls, not climbing a fence with a pack on my back looking like an old swaggy. After climbing one more solid hill, the rest of the day was on country tracks and reasonably level ground apart from some mud from the rain that fell the day before.

It was like being in heaven not having to leave my cosy bed. I was still up at 8, but not rushing, not packing, and just nice to lay there. When I drew the curtain, I couldn’t believe my eyes. The wind and rain had returned. Very fickle weather. I got up had breakfast and asked the inn keeper if I could use the laundry to wash my muddy and sweaty clothes, as that was going to be my chore for the day. When she offered to do that for me, I almost kissed her feet, I was so greatful. I then went back to my room for a snooze. I went out later,but spent most of the day just relaxing and doing nothing. I’m hoping that sunshine will return tomorrow. The book tells me I will be walking further with less climbing. We’ll see. At least I’ll be in a nice clean tee shirt and shorts, oh, and undies and socks.

Woke up this morning, and the sun was peering through the curtains. I jumped, well that’s how it appeared, and opened the curtains saw blue skies. Wow, how lucky for the people’s long weekend. After my English breakfast, which maybe I shouldn’t do every day, I shook away the pains and set off for a day, that,according to the guide book would be easier than the day before. It only needed one less hangman for that to happen. Today’s stage,was actually one mile longer, and the total ascent was 3345feet,which was 900 feet less. After yesterday’s epic and legs still feeling like jelly, not sure after reflecting on the day, how that was easier. The magic of today was the views under blue skies, the amount of locals out walking their dogs, who would stop and have a chat, wishing you success and telling me of some of the sections they have walked. Also for the first time, actually walking through a village and caravan park and not much mud.Watching all the kids playing chase and the campers every where. The whole place was buzzing with warmth and excitement. Back to the track, a fair section today had steps built made of sleeper risers, probably because of erosion. It made it tough as these steps were very uneven from movement from the weather over time, and to having to go up or down, sometimes 100 odd steps, I certainly rested for minutes on getting to the top or the bottom. When I reached Woolacombe,I was to ring the host of my accommodation, as with the long weekend, I couldn’t get accommodation in the village. Where I’m staying, is about ten minutes away. I was supposed to walk another ten minutes to the end of town, but I rang as soon as I got to the beginning, as by then, the sticks were holding me up vertical. I’ll do that last bit on Monday.

I woke up feeling reasonably good this morning. Amazing how the body recovers with a good sleep. The rain had gone, for how long is anyone’s guess and the wind started reasonably mild. This is compared to yesterday mind you. After a hearty full english breakfast, I left an hour earlier than yesterday, as I knew it was going to be a lot further today. The first mile was very pleasant, walking up high on a coastal path with bitumen under my shoes. Normally I don’t like walking on bitumen,but after all the moving rock and mud, it was a pleasure. Soon after, walking through the meadows watching all the sheep with their new born lambs was also pleasant. However, the mountain climbing returned. I lost count of how many times going up,then coming down. In and out of wooded tracks, becoming coastal tracks. The beauty was mesmerising, especially without the rain and fog. Needed lots of rests today. Along the coastal paths, you had to get out of the wind as it became reasonably strong. I ran into a few walkers today, which was nice. We kept passing each other as we rested at different times. The signage was much better today, and that also takes pressure away. Some people have a gps, and that helps, I load the map onto my phone, which isn’t any help at all, as when you leave the village, there is no signal. The guide book isn’t much help either, as it gives reference points like the name of a village near by, which you cannot see, and the name of a mountain. They all look the same. Some are tougher than others, that’s all I know. Well, back to the walk, the afternoon just got tougher the further I walked. Steph, pom, sounds more European with a name like that, walking with his dog. I feel sorry for the dog. The dog had his own saddle bags over him,probably carrying his cans of pal and his poop bags. Anyway, he said to me, that this afternoon we will hike up to the highest point of the south west coast path,called Hangman’s Hill. Well, for over an hour, the walk became really steep and never let up. I passed maybe 6 walkers, who in turn passed me when I would have a short rest. It was like a relay. Finally, when I got to the top, there was a pile of rocks, which I didn’t have the energy to crawl up. I could see my destination from there, and it looked tantalisingly close at the bottom of this gigantic mountain, but still a long way to go. Very steep going down a slippery rocky track. And to make it harder, there were still ascents before a really steep climb down. Finally when I got into Combe Martin, and I realised the sun was out, I gladly stopped at the icecream shop,and took a well earned break, before walking up the hill to my accommodation only five minutes away. They say, the whole of the coastal path is like walking four mount Everists, I’m sure we walked one today. The guide book says wayward marks and gentler slopes for the next stage. Mmmm, see what happens. After a hot shower, I rested for a while and found a nice pub,the dolphin,there I drank plenty of water and had a steak. The track today was so demanding, that my stomach muscles were aching after I took my pack off. Anyway, as Rob said, what some people do to have fun.

While I was  chatting with Gayle on the phone this morning, I made the mistake of opening the curtains to show her the beautiful old cottages and pub across the road, and they were. The problem was the weather. It was raining and very windy. By the time I got to  breakfast, the five other people staying at the bnb had checked the forecast and decided to catch a bus. I said if you check the weather every day, you would be better off hiring a car. I have to admit they were right. When I left, I hooked up with a pom from the Midlands, just doing the first two stages. He had a gps. That made it easier as far as not taking wrong turns go. Especially as the weather got worse. Like yesterday, plenty of wooded tracks, only today, much steeper, much longer, and muddy and slippery, and fog, and misty rain. At least in the woods, we were protected from the wind. Not once was I able to remove my pack for a proper rest as it wasn’t worth doing. Whenever the fog lifted and back near the coast, the views were stunning. Under blue skies , they would’ve even looked better. At one stage, there were three people having a picnic. Must have been local idiots. Hey, they were enjoying themselves. In the afternoon coming out of a wooded area, I turned the corner onto a coastal path, and whamo, straight into the eye of a blizzard/storm. Completely exposed to the elements. The wind was incredibly strong. A thin stony and muddy track, with a drop off of probably 50 plus metres, made it all the more scarier. This went on for at least an hour and a half slowly descending into Lynmouth. Lynmouth is a picturesque village sitting on a sometimes wild ocean with a wilder river running through it into the ocean. I thought I was spent by the time I reached Lynmouth. However, the half hour walk to my accommodation was up the steepest hill I have ever tackled. When I finally got to my room, in this 285 year old hotel, I was so happy to see a bath .I filled it up and must have fallen asleep for at least an hour, soaking my frozen aching old bones. The rest of the evening was spent trying to wash my muddy everything and getting them dry for tomorrow, and that includes my shoes. After a fish and veg pub meal, I didn’t have any energy to explore this gorgeous little village. Tomorrow’s walking is supposed to be further, I hope I find someone to follow as when the weather is bad, you tend to concentrate on your walking and not looking for signs. Also, when the weather is atrocious, I have to remove my glasses. The skeleton photo is obviously some poor sod who didn’t make it.

The nerves settling, I set out from my cosy hideaway wearing my favourite tee shirt and shorts, and had my jumper and coat in readiness. The rain was hanging off,and the wind relatively calm. It was cold, but with my back pack on, it didn’t take long to warm up. After a half a mile walking flat, and the ocean in view,the landscape changed dramatically. Now I’m walking up the headlands on a sticky wicket from all the rain. Thanks to my walking poles and one step at a time I managed not to fall. The steeper it got, the slippier it became. It still was a lovely wooded walk. When reaching the top, it opened up. The signage was poor, and so I did take some wrong turns. With the help of locals walking their dogs, I was fortunate to always find my way back to the path. After three hours, I saw a bench and enjoyed a rest and a brew from my flask. Phone reception was poor as I tried to contact Emily. I marched on through all the gorse bushes before finally descending back down, also a slippery and tricky track. The drop off on my right side reminded me to take lots of care. The last hour, safely back on the coast, was nice, as by now,I was starting to feel sore and lethargic.I found my accommodation, dropped off my pack, then walked to Port lock weir along the beach. The gibbers made it difficult to walk. When I reached my destination, I was hoping to catch a bus back to my accommodation, however, the next bus wasn’t for another one and a half hours, so I walked back along the narrow country road. Tomorrow morning, I will bus it back to my starting point. The reason I did this, firstly, there will be a high tide in the morning, and the beach will be inaccessible. The second reason, tomorrow’s a longer stretch, so now I don’t have to do that tricky beach part. After a nice hot shower, and a pub meal, which was opposite my accommodation, I was ready to stack some zeds.

The beginning. Looks shiny, no, it’s raining. I don’t mind the rain too much. It’s the freezing cold wind I don’t like. I took that photo yesterday. Today when I start walking I hope it won’t be shiny. I’m starting to feel better. I have two more days of taking my dose of antibiotics. I’ll walk today and see how I go. Can’t sit around for ever. I’m heading to Portlock weir. Supposed to be an easy walk. They don’t want to kill you just yet. I had a steam train ride yesterday. That kept me out of the wind and rain. Today is forecast for little or no rain. One can only hope. I will have a big english breakfast today, a good heart starter. I’m sort of relaxed, but also a bit anxious. I’ve never walked 1100 kilometres, and I’m on my own missing family. I know once I start, I will settle into the groove. I remember a couple of years ago, I started walking after a day of being cleared of covid and was kicking arse on all eight cylinders within a week. I’m hoping that will happen this time. Might rug up. I will carry my pack. If I find I’m not well enough, I can use a delivery service. I’ve given myself the best opportunity, by resting and staying off the booze. Now it’s time. Cheers

Last week Emily and I had a fun week. After picking up the hire car from Paddington, we had to leave London without going through central London, otherwise you get charged fifteen pounds for the privilege. It’s called congestion tax. Pity if you’re a tradie or delivering something. I guess you would pass it on. Oh!and if you drive an older vehicle, you pay an extra twelve pounds and fifty pence daily for ULEZ. What’s that you’re asking me,ultra low emission zone. Don’t tell anyone, I’d hate the city councils in Australia to find out. I actually met an Irish man called Patrick, true story, who bought a 2010 Mazda. A beautiful car,but he can’t afford to drive it anywhere. Even in Bristol, which is not really a big city charges the same taxes. So I guess they do it in all the cities. Bristol was only nine pounds. Public transport is a cheaper option. However, it is also quite expensive. Two pounds for each bus ride. You need to catch a few to get across town. There is no shortage of those big red double deckers. There must be thousands of them. You can see up to 10 or 12 at any given time when you’re at a large roundabout. Any way, getting back to our road trip, we took a while to escape the busy roads of London, and it was blissful to be driving along country roads and driving through all the villages to Stratford upon Avon. Along the way we stopped at the fox inn and had a pub lunch. We had parsnip soup. I’d never had it before. Really nice, with a roast meat sandwich. The funny part was, the fox inn was connected to the fox house. I pulled up,got out of the car,opened the door, and as I walked in,this poor pommy man shit himself, wondering why some Aussie rat bag came barging into his house. When I realised, I said, sorry mate, and Emily and I closed his door and went next door. We got to Stratford later in the day,checked in and walked for 10 minutes,and ended up at the dirty duck. Met up with Jessica, who Gayle and I met 38 years ago when she was a beautiful young lady. She still is, just a teeny bit older, like the rest of us. The next day Em and I went to jess’s house and here partner John joined us for a walk through the meadows and along the canal. We then had lovely leek and potato home made soup and sandwich at Jessica’s cottage for lunch. A rest in the afternoon for poor old me while Emily and Jessica played scrabble. Later that night,we all went to the theatre, after a couple of pints at the dirty duck. As you would. The next day Emily and I left Stratford and headed to Cambridge. We stopped at some amazing places along the way. Again that night, had a pint,and pizza for dinner. We left early the next morning, and joined the morning rush hours back to London town. The first 80 kilometres took an hour, the last 10 kilometres took more than an hour. Never mind, we had a fun time. The last few days before me catching a train to Bristol and onto Minehead were interesting. I don’t think I have enough time to tell you, but, keeping a long story short, the plumber came a couple of times to tend to the new washing machine, that keeps flooding the pizza shop below Emily’s unit. Then Emily had to ring the fire brigade as some clown living in the basement below the pizza shop, must have been burning tyres, as the pizza shop and the unit were choking in an insipid smell and smoke .I felt sorry for the pizza shop owner, as he was copping it from up above and below. Also, the cough I haven’t been able to shake, Emily got me to see the doctor. With the cold weather, I have a lung infection, so hopefully a bout of antibiotics will sort that out. After reluctantly hugging my beautiful daughter good bye, I caught the bus to Bristol. Met some great guys in the place I was staying. Two poms and an Irish man. They love their grog. I decided to start my antibiotics yesterday, so I don’t want to drink any alcohol. I’m going to look like a dickhead sitting in a pub,without a drink. I now have made it Minehead, the starting point of my eleven hundred kilometres. I hope I’m feeling well enough to start on Wednesday.

Follow the red line. Hopefully you can zoom it in. Starting in Minehead, finish in Poole. Jessica, and Stratford.

Leaving home at 7am and catching the train from Caboolture to Eagle Junction,the connecting train to the airport was cancelled. A half hour later and the next one running late, I’m thinking, I should have caught an uber. Half the price and I would be there now. Lucky I left early. Arrived at the airport, and 90 minutes later cleared through passport, security, etc, on my way to the airport gate. A forty minute delay and at 11.40 am, finally on my way to Shanghai. As the plane was only 70 percent full, I had plenty of elbow space. Really good flight. Only problem,most of the entertainment was in Chinese. Not much English options.Also,I can’t listen to Michael Buble type of music for 12 hours.The food was good, maybe just good. Arrived in Shanghai, starting to feel tired, and now I have a 6 hour wait, with delay 6 and a half. The next leg is fully booked ,and the pork and rice looks like what those poor blokes were getting fed on the Burmese railway back in 1943. Never mind, I can handle anything if it’s over a 1000 dollars less and it’s over in 32 hours. Made it to London, security, pass port control,etc,took all of 5 minutes. Bought a pommy sim,and let the adventure begin. Our daughter Emily texted which trains and bus to catch, so now 7.30 am again, feeling knackered by 8.30,I’m hugging one of my beautiful girls on Harrow Rd Maida Hill in London. Only problem now, I need to entertain myself without falling asleep for another 12 hours, to get my body into the new time zone. And guess what?I brought blue skies with me. London has had a miserable winter and start to Spring. Not today, 9am and it’s already 10 degrees. If the sun stays out, it could hit 12. What’s that you’re saying?I’m excited?Ken oath I am. Last week was like 4 and rain. Emily and I walked all through the suburbs of Bayswater, Paddington, Hyde Park for hours. But by 3pm and I’d been awake for what felt like 3 weeks, I succumbed to an hours very deep nap. After that, Emily had to catch up with a friend, so I went to Angie’s house, The local Irish pub. I enjoyed it that much, I’ve been back more than once. The last couple of days we have walked a lot, caught tubes and red buses, tube is underground rail for the not so travelled reader. Found brilliant street food at Notting Hill markets and just chilling out,literally. Today, Sunday, much the same. Next week we will hire a car and head to Stratford Upon Avon, where Shakespeare was born. We’ll visit friends and take the country byways back to London town before I make my way south for my trek known as the south West coast path.