HANKS TRAVEL BLOG

After finding our accommodation and checking in, Jeff and I relaxed and had a quiet night. Being out of town probably worked well for us as apparently in Burgos it was absolutely crowded. My dinner was scallops, steak and chips,and the most gorgeous cheese cake for dessert. Did I also mention how nice the vino was? This morning the wind was cold as we set off. Clouds above and almost dark as we wanted to leave the pavement and city behind asap. Leaving big cities is never easy, as the high rise buildings tamper with the little sense of direction you may have. After a kilometre, we hadn’t seen any markers for a while, so somehow we had lost the way. As Jeff was trying google maps I asked a local who pointed us in the right direction. Turned out, we were one block off our mark and headed in the right direction. Once we saw the cathederal, I felt more confident. As we approached the cathederal, four Irish girls came out of an albergue and walked towards us and said we were going in the wrong direction. I think we saved them from getting lost. I walked with them for a while, and the chatter took us all away from the drudgery of leaving this large city. We’re now on earth tracks reasonably flat for a while, cold wind blowing, resulting in favourable walking conditions for now. We are  entering the Meseta. It means a vast high altitude  plateau. Hot in summer, cold in winter. Finally after twelve kilometres, a cafe finally appears. As it is the first one, the place is very crowded. Helen and Mark are there, also their friends that have joined them for a week. Whilst under cover, the heavens open and the rain is torrential. I make the decision that I will abandon my summer shoes and go back to  my mud runners. Only yesterday I swapped as the weather improved. My poncho is ready to go, but by the time we leave the cafe, the rain has eased. Some ks on, I am beckoned to go into a small church. Arvay Maria is playing. I see an old nun inside. I approach her to get a stamp for my crededential. Something amazing happens. I can’t understand what she is asking me in Spanish, but I mention I am from Australia and my name is Hank. She blesses me and then places her hand on my forehead and says a prayer. As she is doing this, my reflections go to my family and I think how lucky a pilgrim I am. This tiny woman now places a St Christopher’s medal around my neck.The moment is very special and brings tears to my eyes. On leaving we now begin to ascend over a number of kilometres at an acceptable gradient. As we rise,there are wind farms to the left and right. By the time we reach the top, the wind is now thirty plus km per hour and getting colder. Now it is getting dark and the sky is black. It starts to thunder, very loud claps of thunder. All the pilgrims are clambering for their rain jackets I unholster my poncho and it almost flies away as I try to get it on. By now Jeff is badly leaning to one side, but he has no choice but to soldier on. I march on as quick as I can to make it to the next village to hopefully secure a bed for us for the night. I eventually reach Hornillus and after four enquiries, I realise all the albergues are full. I wait for Jeff to arrive and we go into the bar to get out of the weather as we are now cold drowned wet rats. Helen, Mark and their friends have now checked into their booked accommodation and come and try to help us sort out our situation. Luckily we worked it out and were able to book accommodation at the next village. Jeff was not able to continue walking under the conditions with his back so we caught a cab. I am grateful I joined him in the cab as the rest of the day was storm after storm. Even hail at one stage. When the cab dropped us off at the albergue, we found Bren and Angelo enjoying themselves in the bar. Also before the weather went crazy, I don’t hear cuckoos any more but stork nests start to appear.

After a hot shower, I relaxed on my bed. Jeff, Helen and Mark went downstairs to the beer garden for a drink. This is the smallest village I have stayed at,not much to see. When I eventually got down stairs, Mark said when he came up to check on me, I was sleeping like a baby 👶. I believe I was resting my eyes. A quiet beer and inside for the pilgrim’s dinner. I had icy cold soup. Tasted alright, just seemed odd you would eat it out of the fridge. A couple of ham steaks with chips, and rice pudd with cinnamon,and a glass of red 😋. An early night, as 26 plus kilometres tomorrow. Woke up early, looked out the window, foggy, but looks like rain has passed. Started walking and cold  but pleasant. Cool wind in my hair. We walked along the rio vena valley, before our ascent to the lonely Sierra Atapuerca. After four kilometres in, a village offered a cafe where I enjoyed an egg and a ham and cheese pastie. Still climbing, the terrain became the roughest I have experienced. The rocks were so uneven, it was difficult to walk, and this is where I fell forward, fortunately doing no damage. After navigating this difficult section, it was a long descent along natural paths and country roads to Burgos. The cuckoos were singing in the background. The way was now a choice of walking past the airport and following the river on natural paths, or follow the road. We decided to follow the river. At some stage, Jeff’s back started to trouble him again, so we stopped for a rest and slowly found our way to a bar before finding our accommodation.  By this time, Helen and Mark continued along the river to their accommodation. We may not see them again until tomorrow as Burgos is a very large city, and we are probably three or more kilometres away from each other.

After a lovely hot shower, and a short rest, I looked out the window,  and although the sun was shining, it was coming down very heavy, and the weather had become quite cold. I put on my thermals under my shorts and wore my jacket for the first time. I would have been happy to stay in our lovely fortress. Don’t know if I would have survived the night without food though. After the rain eased, it was only a one hundred metre dash to the bar. It was packed with pilgrims. We all chatted and drank merrily. Alistair,Jeff, Helen, Mark, and I popped across the square and gorged on some nice food,  washed down with two bottles of wine. We shared some tapas, and I then had a tuna steak with roast potato slices. All main meals come with roast potatoes or chips. You really don’t see vegetables. My dessert was a delicious flam. Back at the bar, the talk was about possible shortages of accommodation, especially this weekend being a long weekend. Jeff and I were fortunate that Helen had booked a room with four beds, and we would share that at our next destination in San Juan.I also booked a room for Jeff and I for the following  night in Burgos. At the end of the day, you don’t really want to walk on to another village looking for a bed, especially if you’ve walked a 25 km plus day. This morning cold start to the day. Heavy cloud,but bits of blue about. After six ks,still no rain and we found a cafe for breakfast. A couple of kilometres further, I felt I needed to go. Normally like clock work I go before I leave the albergue. That didn’t work out today. Just as I was looking for a bush, I spotted a town  not far away and I was grateful to use the cafe’s facilities. The first twelve kilometres was very pleasant, apart from sections next to the freeway feeling the earth shake from the semi trailers roaring by. The next twelve was a lot tougher as there were some steep climbs. Also lots of water gathered on the natural paths,and a bit of mud, but nothing serious. The paths are a lot softer which is kinder to the feet. Jeff and I walked the whole way on our own today. Saw pilgrims, and chatted for a short time, but, just me and him. After the ascents and descents, I think Jeff must have sniffed some jet fuel, as all of a sudden he bolted. I managed to stick with him, and when he caught up with this young bloke,the youngster started to walk faster. Jeff took up the challenge, tilted his head back,looked across at his oponent, and went again. His oponent did the same. I was galloping by this stage to keep up. In the end, the youngster had nothing left and retreated. When I also passed, the young man looked defeated. After we arrived at San juan,a few minutes later our oponent arrived and told us, he was going to be next town, I thought he’s fit, but then I saw him get into a cab. Each to their own. Helen and Mark arrived after us and we booked into the albergue, and I was happy to get the pack off my back.

The rain looks like it’s here to stay. Last night, I found a heater hidden in a cupboard and used it to dry my clothes. I hurried along the narrow cobblestone road to the nearest bar to get out of the rain. I found one pilgrim there, Bren, a pom. By the  time we were half way through our first beer, the bar was half full of pilgrims who I see daily on and off. Alistair left for his fancy hotel while Jeff, Duncan, and I had our dinner at this bar/restaurant. Helen and Mark popped in as did many others. I had paela as an entree, meatballs for main,and apple cake for dessert. The usual quota of wine and beer, and back to our closet for sleep. It rained over night, and when we left the albergue this morning, I only wore my singlet in very gloomy conditions. Cold breeze, fog and misty rain. After ten minutes the misty rain turned  heavy, so I stopped and employed my trusty poncho. The dirt road had many puddles, and a little mud but was quite manageable. Following the N12 was a drag with huge trucks speeding by only metres away. Haven’t seen any more vineyards, but will see them again further down the track. Jeff and I caught up with Helen and Mark, and I walked with them, sometimes joined by others for the rest of the day. Jeff took off like a 747, and we didn’t see him again until we were six kilometres from our destination. The only reason why we caught him, he and Bren were in a bar on their second pint. I dragged him out, and we all marched towards Belorado. Two kilometres before we reached our town, the rain started again. When we arrived, Helen and Mark peeled off to their accommodation. Jeff and I weren’t having much luck with finding accommodation, as the first three were full. I’ve never had that problem before. We ran into Linda and Adrian from Yeppoon, who were also having the same problem. Linda found an apartment, two bedrooms,  two bathrooms, so we joined forces and secured that for the night. A very nice apartment, the bathroom was bigger than the room Jeff and I shared last night. This evening we shall farewell Alistair, as he will be heading home to Wales

Last night was great. We made it to a bar before a storm hit and enjoyed a couple of pints before Helen and Mark joined us. It was so wonderful to have caught back up with them. After more consumption of alchohol and friendly chatter, we left Helen and Mark to find some dinner. Monday night, and the town was rocking. Restaurants and bars were packed,we were lucky to get into one and get a table. The tapas was sensational. All different types of fish, olives and other niceties. A salad was next, and a huge steak and chips, and some sort of yoghurt for the finale. Best meal I’ve had so far, washed down with red wine of course. Had to dodge the rain on the way back to the hostal, and the rain persisted most of the night. A good sleep and felt pretty good apart from a niggle in my back. I forgot to mention yesterday I met a man from Newmarket, and have also been chatting with a couple from Yeppoon in North Queensland. And squirrels, saw squirrels. Reminded me of Hyde park in London. Also reminds me when the kids were young, I woke up one night thrashing in my bed, having dreamt a squirrel was running up my leg. Gayle woke up and was more frightened from my thrashing around  than I from the squirrel about to dine on my crown jewels. So we told the kids who thought that was hilarious. The next day when I arrived home from work, there was a computer print out of this mean looking squirrel with his tongue hanging out, and the slogan underneath, “your nuts are next”. Emily and Ashleigh were not sure how I would react,but we all had a good laugh. So this morning,a cool dull sky, perfect walking weather. There was lots of mud about on the side of the road, but we were fortunate that the black stuff was where we were walking. I walked with a few other pilgrims at the start, and after five kilometres, it started raining. On with the poncho and all was good. Surmising it might rain more, and the tracks would be muddy, I got changed into my  wet weather shoes at the next cafe. The weather cleared up and the natural paths weren’t a problem. At one stage we had to manoeuvre around two hundred odd kids, as apparently walking a stage on the camino is part of the school curriculum. They were a good bunch and very polite, wishing us on with beun camino. There were some climbs,but they were long and not too steep. When we reached the highest point of the day at Ciruena,there is a golf resort. I remember walking past this lovely location ten years ago. All the many lovely dwellings were empty then,and are still now. At least it looks like the golf course is being utilised now, but strange the buildings have never been occupied. The way did follow the N12 motor way for a bit, and also led through an industrial estate for the last two kilometres as we headed into Santo Domingo. Alistair went to find his accommodation. Jeff and I checked into an albergue. I noticed Jeff  leaning to the right in the last kilometre, and he said his back was playing up. Alistair texted Jeff to say he had a bath in his posh room, so Jeff decided to go over and hope to get some relief sitting in hot water. In comparison, our room is four metres long, and less than two metres wide. Just enough room for two beds along one wall, and access to the second bed.

Although a large city, I enjoyed my time in Logrono. Last night, the pedestrian street had a huge amount of locals and their children out and about for dinner and drinks. Heaps of out door dining and drinking venues. No one was inside on this very balmy night. The usual couple of beers, and then pizza and wine for dinner. Before then,someone yelled my name as I was walking with out my brace, I turned to see who it was and twisted my knee and got a terrible stab.I sat straight down in a bar and drank some medicine.I then thought I might have to have my pack sent on to the next town,and walk with out it.I limped back to the hotel and enjoyed my sleep. This morning my knee seemed ok,but I still didn’t want to carry it, so Alistair tried to organise transport for mine and Jeff’s bag. We didn’t hear back, so I decided I had no choice. Half hour after we left, the company replied to Alistair’s request, but I wasn’t walking back that far. The morning was much cooler and not a blue sky in sight. Dark clouds,stuck with us all the way. It warmed up a bit, but the ground didn’t bake like it had the last few days. Mostly flat and natural paths were a great relief. Leaving Logrono wasn’t much fun having to navigate the city traffic and concrete paths. Also a bridge was closed and then getting lost didn’t improve things at that time of the morning. But once out of town it was nice to walk amongst the grape vines again. A couple of sections walking with the motor way nearby wasn’t doing it for me either. At around 11.30 the skies opened up, and the rain falling down was comforting. We found an old shed so I could remove my poncho from my pack. The rain didn’t last long, but there were a couple of minor showers later in the day. When we arrived at Najera, Alistair peeled off to find his hostal,while Jeff and I looked for accommodation on the phone sitting on a park bench. Jeff received a call from Alistair  to tell him there were vacant rooms where he was staying. By now my body is aching all over and found it difficult to start walking back towards the hostal.I had trudged about 300 metres when I realised I had left my phone on the park bench. Adrenalin took over, and I managed to run back and thankfully my phone was still there. I was happy to check in and after a wonderfully hot shower was able to recuperate lying on my bed. I forgot to mention, after I put my poncho on, I was so excited to be walking through the rain, I walked about one hundred metres and realised I left my poles behind. So I was a bit clumsy today,.maybe a bit knackered also. I was proud of my efforts today, considering I didn’t think I could make it this morning, but I achieved thirty kilometres today. I’ll be walking around twenty now for a few days as the towns line up to do that.

It means great wine producing area. Last night we joined Alistair at his modern albergue for drinks and dinner.Our’s was ancient. We dined with lots of familiar faces. One newbie I spoke with, Tom, a dutchie, had fun rambling on with this old bloke in dutch. At seventy one, he is one tough son of a bitch. He started his camino in France, before Bordeaux. In twenty days, he has walked six hundred kilometres,carrying his pack. That’s averaging thirty kilometres a day, unless he’s a bullshit artist like myself. Like every other night, I zonk out as soon as my head hits the pillow. This morning, this now familiar international threesome of Alistair Jeff and I left the small village of Sansol under another incredible blue sky. After a flat bit of around five hundred metres, our first sharp downhill was upon us. It was then, that Jeff realised he had left his hiking poles at the mini mart that happened to be open on a Sunday morning. Alistair and I waited while Jeff trudged back to retrieve them. We then walked another km and blow and behold, a cafe open for business. A guacamole and Turkey toasted sandwich with hot chocolate really hit the spot. As we took off, Alistair put his hand in his pocket and found his room key, so it was now his turn to go back.I was a bit concerned, as usually things happen in three. Jeff and I continued through mainly gores and bushland and also vineyards as far as you could see. A very winding track, which crossed a very winding road several times throughout the day. I could have done with a hedge trimmer. As there has been no rain, the natural paths, which are all clay based, are baked solid and are harder to navigate than concrete paths as they’re very uneven and rocks sticking up and worse when climbing up or going down steep hills. The time spent on the bitumen today was probably the best option. When it’s like this the feet really suffer. After twenty one kilometres, I was happy to call it a day. We had stopped a few times and one longer stop, I removed my socks and shoes, which does really help the feet to rejuvenate. As you catch up to other pilgrims, you can tell what nationally they are from looking at the back of their legs. Because you have had some conversation with them, and they also have stops, you pass each other many times. So to forget about how hot you or your feet are, I think, as I am about to pass this pilgrim,ha ha,those legs are Korean,and then the next ones are Mexican, and the next one are english. I was scoring myself at ninty percent. Also I have noticed as we walk our ninth day,the amount of injured pilgrims. Many, including me wearing knee braces, and a number limping, probably from blisters. This time next week, I believe the buzzards will be circling. Heard cuckoo birds today, or someone’s clock is stuffed, as they were calling well beyond twelve ,even at twelve.

Today for me, is the most important day of the year. To be walking the camino on this most important day is an extra bonus to reflect on the people who gave their lives for me to live the incredible life I live.I can’t thank you enough. I salute you.I brought a knitted poppy from home and proudly wore it.Lest we forget. Yesterday, we walked from the square to the way so we wouldn’t get lost this morning. I’m not sure if we got lost heading out of Estella or confused,but some how,we were walking the wrong way along the river and ended up at a dead end. Luckily, we were only half a K out of the way. I’m now a poet. It’s always a grind leaving a city due to the concrete pavement. At least there weren’t lots of people and cars. Estella is a nice place for a rest. By the time we were five kilometres out of town the hard pavement changed to gravel and greenery. By 8.15 we arrived at a free vino font and there must have been twenty pilgrims lined up with their cups like seagulls waiting for crumbs. I joined them, but realised after five minutes that it wasn’t flowing today,so moved on. It was a great day for walking, sunny and cool breeze. A couple of steep hills, but nothing too serious. The plan today was to walk twenty one kilometres and see how we’re travelling. If we were up to it, we could walk an extra seven, and then make tomorrow easier as sometimes the villages are further apart. Any way, even though I got my first blister, I doctored it at the twenty one kilometre mark, had an icecream and decided to walk the extra. Alistair left after Jeff and I this morning and caught up with us at around the fifteen kilometre mark where we were having a break on a park bench in the middle of nowhere. I bought a baguette this morning and also some cheese and salami. I also had my flask of tea, so I was quite content 😌. Having arrived at the albergue, it was and always is a relief to get the pack off my back and get my socks and shoes off. Then a hot shower, wash my singlet, jocks and socks. If there is time,a rest before heading out and catching up with other pilgrims for the odd drink and dinner. Allister is joining us again this evening. Helen and Mark are ahead by a day, but hopefully we’ll catch them up in a week or so. One of the villages we walked through today was gearing up for a medieval paella festival

Jason and Amy left around 8am to  catch the bus to Biarritz for their flight back to the UK. Jeff and I relaxed and I had a cup of tea. About an hour later, I think we made it official that today would be a day of rest. I felt relieved and relaxed knowing we didn’t have to go. We wandered to the square on a very nice laid back day and shared a toasted sandwich, consisting of tuna, egg and lettuce. A piece of curitzo tortilla and bread followed. This wonderful cafe also served my favourite Spanish thick hot chocolate drink. I spoke with the family as Ashleigh and her two littlies arrived from Tasmania for a week of warmer weather. Willa was not impressed with her first flight. Alistair joined us for morning tea, and we strolled around Estella. Later after lunch, which also included one of those Spanish hot chocolate drinks,we relaxed in the sunshine,later enjoying a one hour body massage. Alistair and Jeff only required half hour.  Back to the accommodation for siesta, and it really has been a well deserved day off. I heard through the grape vine that young Jed did a double day yesterday, so I can only hope we see him down the track sometime. Oh to be young again. Probably sound like an old man. Slowly getting there. We met up again with our welsh friend for drinks and dinner. An early night as the camino awaits us tomorrow on a very special day.

This morning we left the very modern albergue, more like a resort actually, about 8,quite cool weather and heavily clouded skies. After maybe 500 metres we saw Alistair, Helen and Mark outside a cafe enjoing a chat and coffee. We ordered ours and joined them,when Helen brutally, in her proper English accent, announced in front of all that was within earshot, that someone whose mouth produced so much bullshit could write so well. Everybody including me pissed themselves laughing. I took it as a compliment at the highest level. They then left, and soon after we along with Alistair also left. At that point Alistair told me he was finally only believing 50 percent of what I was telling him. The day’s walking started really well. Not much road and plenty of gravel tracks and gravel roads. A bit of up and down, but that’s ok, and the weather kept relatively cool under the cover of clouds till about midday. Then everything changed. Jason was travelling ok, considering the amount of blisters he now carries. Amy was also jumping up and down like a rabbit, and they both had decided to carry their packs as today was reluctantly the last day as next week they need to be back at work. Jeff too was going ok and smartly enough allowed his pack to be transported. But, as can easily happen when you have a bad back, a wrong step and bang,all of a sudden he was leaning to one side, and at six foot four, slightly taller than me,you can’t hide it. We then stopped for lunch at the next village. Jeff rested a bit and did some exercise, probably to no avail. A short while later, I could feel dicky knee had rejoined me, so I stopped and after two days walking freely, put my brace back on. As the afternoon progressed Jeff was really starting to struggle. He tried not to show it,but by now he was leaning on a forty-five degree angle. We stopped numerous times in the last six kilometres and finally made it to a bar in our stop for the night at Estella. A couple of lagers and catching up with our priest, we now had about 1.5 ks to walk. Whilst I was in the bar ordering drinks, I spoke to a lovely English girl living in New Zealand, who stated, you’re famous, you’re that seventy four year old  Australian,who never wears any clothes and loud and swears alot. She did say it very sweet, so I accepted my second compliment of the day. We then passed this most incredible chocolate/patisserie shop. Amy was actually drooling that bad, the saliva was dripping on to the ground like a british bull dog. Alistair went in and bought us all a treat. My dark chocolate full of almonds was the best I have ever tasted.We grindingly arrived at our very nice accommodation at six o’clock. No time for rest unfortunately. A shower and met up with Alistair, Helen and Mark at an American diner, for our farewell dinner with Jason and Amy. Jason is a wizz with IT,and I will miss him immensely. With his help, I can now confidently turn my phone on and off. Shit I’m going to miss him. And also Amy. This morning I will let Jeff make the call if he and I call today a rest day. Personally I wouldn’t mind resting my knee, it does sound like a good idea. Alistair is having an RDO, so we’ll see what happens.